Spicy Puttanesca: Tomatoes, Olives & Capers
Quick Italian Recipe with a Colorful History
Sep 22, 2009
Pasta alla puttanesca has a colorful name and a mysterious history. Based on its name, folklore contends that puttanesca sauce was made primarily and in large quantities in Napolese brothels. Puttanesca is derived from the Italian word for “whore,” puttana, which in turn is derived from the Latin word putida which means “stinking.” Colorful tales abound asserting the strong, delicious smell (putida) of the simmering putannesca sauce lured customers into houses of ill-repute. Other stories contend that puttanesca’s rapid cooking time allowed Napolese harlots to cook and eat a meal in between customer appointments.
However, another possible, and more likely, theory of the name’s origin was put forth by Italian journalist Annarita Cuomo. According to an article printed in Il Golfo Cuomo claims that restaurant owner Sandro Petti created the sauce for his Ischian restaurant Rancio Fellone in the 1950s.
Petti’s story contends that one evening at closing time, a group of diners arrived at his restarurant. Petti claimed he had nothing left to serve them. The customers begged to be served, saying “Facci una puttanata qualsiasi” or “make us whatever garbage there is.” In this context, puttanata means garbage or something useless. Petti’s pantry contained only spaghetti, tomatoes, olives and capers, “so, I used them to make the sauce,” Petti told Cuomo. Petti then added the dish to his menu.
Further evidence adds credence to Petti’s claim. The earliest text to reference pasta “alla puttanesca” is Raffaele La Capria’s 1961 novel Ferito a morte (1962). This underscores Petti’s assertion that the sauce was created in the 1950s. In addition, Puttanesca gained increasing popularity throughout Italy during the 1960s.
Regardless of its origins, Puttanesca is a quick-cooking, spicy sugo (sauce) that delights the taste buds. Serve it simply over a favorite noodle to let the sauce take center-stage. For a protein-rich alternative, serve it over grilled fish or chicken.
Here’s a recipe that ensures flavorful success.
Ingredients:
- ¼ cup of olive oil
- 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste or 7 anchovy fillets
- 1 tablespoon of chili flakes
- 15 black Mediterranean olives (without stones), coarsely chopped.
- ¼ cup of capers
- 3 cloves of garlic
- ½ of a yellow onion, minced.
- ¼ cup of fresh basil leaves, chopped finely, or 1 tablespoon of dried basil
- 2 sprigs of fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon of dried oregano
- ¼ cup of fresh parsley or 1 tablespoon of dried
- 2 28 oz. cans of peeled, whole San Marzano Tomatoes liquefied or 2 cans of crushed tomatoes
- Salt and pepper to taste
Directions:
- Heat olive oil in medium saucepan on medium heat. Add anchovy paste or anchovy fillets, cooking and stirring until liquefied and combined with the olive oil. Add garlic and onions, cook until sweating and translucent. Add chili flakes, capers and olives, cook for two minutes or until capers begin to pop.
- Stir in tomatoes and herbs and bring sauce to a simmer. Allow sauce to cook uncovered at a low simmer for twenty minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook an additional 5 minutes.
- Serve over your favorite noodle or protein. Garnish with fresh basil, parsley and whole olives.
Note: If beginning with Marinara with Fresh Tomato and Herbs as a base, follow directions but omit adding garlic, basil, oregano and onions to the olive oil. Also, add the fresh tomato marinara instead of the crushed tomatoes.
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